For us Copenhageners, cycling is a way of life and we are proud to be called the best cycling city in the world. Sophie Hæstorp Andersen, mayor of Copenhagen In light of this initiation, I am surprised that the Tour de France has never hit Copenhagen or Denmark before, but 2022 is really the first time. The mayor of the city, Sophie Hæstorp Andersen, tells me: “For us Copenhageners, cycling is a way of life and we are proud to be called the best cycling city in the world. I have been watching the Tour since I was a girl and now, like the rest of Denmark, I look forward to seeing the riders in the city. ” All of these soigneurs, grimpeurs, rouleurs and possibly even the rare stagiaire will roam these streets before embarking on two more outdoor stages (see James Witherell’s Bicycle History book for great terminology). The women’s tour will also be re-released this July, starting in Paris – an event that has had a difficult history since its inception in 1955, but we hope will eventually spark the audience’s imagination. Queen Louise Bridge. Photo: Copenhagen Media Center / Martin Heiberg We start from the covered market Torvehallerne, to get cakes, smørrebrød and coffee. My drivers, Christian and Roman from Cycling Copenhagen, point out that everyone rides a bike – even four-year-olds go to school in their capital, something I imagine a UK parent would be persecuted for. “Cycling here is part of the hygge mentality,” says Christian. “We want to feel awake and healthy in the morning.” Our plan is to follow the route of the timing of the Round, making diversions. First stop is the Queen Louise Bridge, said to be the busiest bike lane in the world, where a digital meter tells us how many cyclists have passed this way in the past four months: about 1.2 million. We see them pass and it is the behavior that hits me, the confidence and the vigor with which they ride a bike. Here is a young couple, laughing in the wooden cargo box while he pedals, then a glamorous rider in crocodile leather boots and cropped robes followed by several enthusiastic young musicians with instruments. There are no high-definition vests or helmets and, because the bike lanes are clean, there is no special equipment to avoid scratches and dirty potholes. Next to Parken, the soccer field, where we stop to watch a couple of four-year-olds train in a specially made replica of the city streets, with traffic lights and a corner bucket. It takes planning to become a utopia, something the Christian wants to point out. “We had a cycling culture from the beginning – our first bike lane was built in 1908. But the architect, Jan Gehl, made many of the major innovations.” Gehl introduced bike lanes separated by a curb, a vital development, as well as on-street parking that put a number of cars between traffic and bicycles. With buses, taxis and trains all capable of carrying bicycles, clean intersections, ample bicycle parking and a six-second bike ride at all traffic lights, it is no wonder that more than a third of Copenhagen residents travel faster: A cafe with plenty of bicycle parking. Photo: Kim Wyon. The most famous icon of Copenhagen, the statue of the Little Mermaid, will be the site for the first test for professional Tour cyclists, with a few sharp turns near it, and then there will be a cobbled section through the Amalienborg Royal Palace. (Yes, and the kings of Denmark ride bicycles, sometimes taking the children to school with the load box.) There is a sharp right on the cobblestones outside the house of Frederick, the successor. We pass the church and go up to the Botanical Garden to see the mangrove forest and the palm forest. In the following days, I explore further. There are elegant bicycle bridges here that connect the city via the main waterway with the suburban island of Amager and radically reduce travel times compared to cars. Bicycle bridges ensure that cars are separated from cyclists and help reduce travel time for the latter. Photo: Daniel Rasmussen Copenhagen Media Center Taking such a bridge I explore Christiania’s hippie refuge, which is now mostly a sleepy maze by the water with fascinating DIY houses. There is a smell of his former anarchic glory in the market where open drugs are sold and muscular young people with big dogs suggest a darker side. The cultural revival of Copenhagen led to this northern tip of Amager Island, an area that was once a port facility or military zone, but is now full of interesting restaurants, cafes and leisure facilities – all in unparalleled creative style. Amager Bakke Ecological Station also houses the tallest climbing wall in the world and a ski slope (it is possible to climb the 80-meter wall and ski). People have created small groups and clubs. Now the excitement for the upcoming tour is more than ever Anders Mielke, podcaster Here you will find Noma, which is consistently voted the best restaurant in the world, and its many descendants, including the POPL burger. As you would expect in Denmark, there is nothing formal or snobby about it, just great burgers – and it is perfectly placed for cyclists near the Inderhavns bike bridge. Amass Fried Chicken, despite the name, is more of a place to get dressed a little. At Bistro Lupa we get livestock vegan food. “Have you ever tried cows?” asks Jason, the owner, who then serves a huge feast of subtle and unexpected flavors. The pandemic, he tells me, gave him the opportunity to develop a whole new range of dishes. The Inderhavnsbroen pedestrian and bicycle bridge connects Nyhavn and Christianshavn. Photo: Kim Petersen / Alamy The next day, when I meet Anders Mielke, the man behind the popular Forhjulslir popular local bike podcast, he also points out an unexpected benefit of the pandemic. “If nothing else, it has increased the city’s love of cycling,” he says. “Now the excitement for the upcoming tour is greater than ever.” The Tour de France will take place in three stages in Denmark – 1 July in the capital, 2 and 3 July further in the country – before leaving for France. But in my opinion, the yellow jersey will not go with them: it will stay in its natural home, Copenhagen. The trip was supported by Visit Denmark. Kevin Rushby stayed at the Absalon Hotel (double from about 130 £) near the main station, with bicycles available. Cycling Copenhagen offers a variety of city tours from around 40 £. Travel extras and car parking were provided by Holiday Extras, which also provides travel and medical insurance.
