The musicians are dressed in turquoise uniforms with gold epaulettes — colors that match the blue of the Aegean waters of Alaçatı, located on the Cesme Peninsula in western Turkey (or Türkiye). With its rustic stone houses with painted wooden doors, winding streets lined with luxury restaurants, trendy art galleries and boutique shops, Alaçatı has all the hallmarks of a typical Mediterranean town, albeit with an effortless Turkish charm. Turkish vacationers have been flocking to this picturesque destination, about an hour’s drive southwest of Izmir, since a resurgence took place in the early 2000s. But international visitors are just playing catch-up. Everywhere you turn, people are drinking Turkish tea in the city’s outdoor cafes, enjoying the fresh air and sunshine.
Colorful city
Alacati’s cobbled streets are lined with brightly colored houses. Murat Topay Adobe Stock And it’s not just the holidaymakers who have won – windsurfers have also become a fixture here due to the strong winds that blow all year round in the nearby bay, making Alaçatı the self-proclaimed windsurfing capital of Turkey. “The air you breathe here is precious,” says Perihan Akbulut, who runs the Kurabiye Hotel, which is a few minutes’ walk from the stunning Kurabiye Stone House. “There’s always a breeze that makes you feel better — even if it’s so hot in the summer months.” CNN’s Richard Quest travels to western Turkey to find out why Izmir is called the “Pearl of the Aegean.” Kurabiye Hotel could easily be mistaken for a boutique Aegean guesthouse thanks to its whitewashed walls and blue doors. Akbulut moved here from Istanbul in 2009 and opened the hotel, which has a courtyard adorned with a lemon grove at its center, the following year. She and her husband now live between the two destinations — enjoying the big city life during the winter and retreating to the beautiful city for the summer season. “It’s so easy — or should we say simple — to organize your life, here in Alaçatı,” he adds. “But that’s exactly what appeals to me; it’s a place where you don’t have to think too much about what to do and where to go.” Hidden inside the Kemeralti bazaar of Izmir is Synagogon Street and it is being renewed
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The Alacati Herb Festival, which aims to showcase local herbs, is held in the city every spring. Berkkan Zengin/GocherImagery/MediaPunch/IPX/AP Alaçatı has gone through many reinventions over the years. It was mostly swampland until the mid-19th century, when authorities drained it to rid the area of swamps that breed malaria-causing mosquitoes. Greek workers from the nearby islands settled here to cultivate vineyards and olive groves, and the region continues to be the leading wine and olive producing region in Turkey. Like other cities in the region, Alaçatı was largely abandoned in the 1920s after Turkey and Greece engaged in a religious-based population exchange. Many of its stone houses had been abandoned for decades and fell into disrepair. But it has experienced a sea change in the last 20 years. Eagle-eyed visitors from all over the country spotted the opportunity to buy holiday homes here, breathing new life into the town. Locals often boast about the region’s produce and artisan foods, and on Saturdays, market stalls with fruit and vegetables, fresh bread and seafood line the city’s main thoroughfare, Kemalpaşa Street, and extend into many side streets. Every spring, the Alaçatı Herb Festival, an annual event showcasing the natural herbs that grow in Alaçatı and the nearby seaside town of Çesme, draws hordes of visitors to the area. “Everything is so accessible,” adds Akbulut. “Delicious food, fresh vegetables and fruits, natural herbs and seafood. “It’s a good mix of local people and new settlers. You can never feel lonely here.”
‘HEAVEN ON EARTH’
Alacati is a short drive from the beaches along the Cesme Peninsula, including the stunning Ilica Beach. Emin Menguarslan/Anadolu Agency/Getty Images This region of the eastern Mediterranean is steeped in history. The ancient ruins of Ephesus, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are just an hour’s drive south of Alacatı. Based near the Aegean Sea and modern Selçuk, it remains one of Christianity’s most revered sites and is home to some of Turkey’s finest archaeological wonders, including Hadrian’s Temple, built in honor of the Roman Emperor Hadrian. Meanwhile, the thermal pools of Pamukkale, which literally translates to “cotton castle” and can be mistaken for a cluster of angelic clouds if seen at the right angle, are just a few hours’ drive away. The ancient city of Ephesus is undoubtedly one of the great wonders of Turkey. But a short drive away is a small village with lots of charm. Tourists have been coming for centuries to this popular site of ancient travertines, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The well-preserved ruins of the ancient city of Hierapolis, once a healing center, are among its highlights, along with the ancient pool of Pamukkale, also known as Cleopatra’s Pool, where the Egyptian queen Cleopatra is believed to have once bathed. And for those who prefer to stay closer to the city, a trip to the hot springs of Ilica Beach, where the water remains shallow for the first 100 meters or so from shore, will not disappoint. “We call this place ‘Heaven on Earth,’” Cesme Mayor Ekrem Oran tells CNN while admiring the herbs at Alaçatı’s Saturday market. Judging by the faces of those around you, you’d be hard-pressed to find anyone who would disagree with that sentiment.
